Cachet and carry: the story of a handbag Three

The white and grey alligator Birkin may very well end up for sale in the brand’s flagship store at 24 Faubourg Saint-Honore in Paris. In sharp contrast to the modern factory, the store is set in an elegant pale stone building, with mosaic tile floors, wooden fittings and sweeping staircases. The space has the feeling of understated luxury. Visiting the store on a weekday morning, it seems the worldwide global downturn is not affecting sales. The shop is full of customers. An array of classic bags are on display – all held behind glass, including a diamond-incrusted Birkin bag which retails at around £120,000. Hermes’ printed silk scarves are precisely folded in drawers, a bright display of colours and prints. One customer leaves laden with four carrier bags, all in Hermes’ classic orange hue, full of newly purchased bags. This is reflected in the sales figures for the first half of the year – sales up until June 30 rose 20% worldwide.

There’s also an unusual archive room full of an exquisite collection of saddles, antiques and curiosities all gathered and collected by Emile Hermes, who ran the company in the early 20th century and was the grandson of the company’s founder. The museum has been restored to its former glory and is as how it would have looked in the 1920s when it was Hermes’ office. With wood-panelled walls, green velvet drapes and parquet flooring, it is traditional but luxurious. The collection is worth millions of pounds and is used by the creative team as inspiration for products. Some of the inspiration gleaned is incredibly direct – an antique leather and silver dog collar inspired the popular Collier de Chien bracelet. It also inspired one of Hermes’ signatures used throughout its leather goods and jewellery – the triangular stud. Many of the products are inspired by the house’s equine past – the classic silk scarves which were launched in 1937 are inspired by jockeys’ outfits.

The Hermes company is still family owned and there are signs of the company’s past all around the building. Underneath the museum there is a small workshop where craftsmen create saddles using traditional methods. Despite the fact the company was founded as a saddle-maker, that aspect is now a small part of the Hermes global business. While the company has branched out to design ready-to-wear menswear and womenswear collections, jewellery and shoes, it is the bags that remain the star attraction.

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